Kibbutz Ha’On, by Eli Gold, Carleton College ’11

For more photos, click here.

I’m writing from Kibbutz Ha’On, located on the picturesque eastern shore of the Sea of Galilee, on this my second night in Israel. We arrive here late last night, settling in after a sunset boat ride on the Kinneret.  Tonight, the air is soothingly warm and humid, making it perfect outside for a late night walk or some personal reflection on the dock.

Despite the tranquil images stirred up by this description though, I am thoroughly exhausted.  We have just finished our first full day of exploration in Israel and I feel like I have already been here for a week.

Our first stop of the day was at the Banias River in the Golan Heights. Our ascent into the Golan highlighted for me, a first-time visitor to Israel, one of the truly unbelievable characteristics of the country: its small size and its proximity to so many important historical places.  On the road to the Banias, we passed right alongside the Lebanese border.  We could see, right next to our bus, the border patrol road, signs cautioning us against entering minefields, and sites of very recent bombings.  This is, of course, on our way into a territory that is still claimed by Syria and will be a bargaining chip in any peace deal with that country.

At the Banias, we hiked alongside a seemingly endless stream of Israeli schoolchildren, learning a bit about the politics of water in Israel. The Banias supplies approximately 20% of Israel’s water supply and losing that river could spell trouble for this already parched land. We enjoyed the rushing river, a small waterfall, and occasional conversations with the curious schoolkids.

Quickly back on the bus, we continued to climb east into the Golan, headed towards the Druze village of Majdal Shams. Majdal Shams was featured prominently in the world news just a few weeks ago.  The town is situated on the border with Syria and in recent weeks Palestinian refugees living in Syria have come to the border to protest.  On one such occasion, the protestors from Syria managed to breach the border, cross a minefield, and enter Majdal Shams.  Over two dozen Syrians were killed.  It remains unclear as to how all of the casualties took place (likely a mixture of exploded mines and shots fired by the Israeli Defense Forces).

Our host in Majdal Shams, a Druze man named Faiz, took us to the border with Syria and explained to us the complexities and challenges of the Druze. The Druze are divided between the Golan Heights, Israel proper, Lebanon, and Syria. He showed us a hill where the Druze of the Golan Heights used to go to communicate with their family members and friends in Syria. At this hill, people on both sides would shout or use megaphones to communicate with those on the other side. Because of the troubled political situation between Israel and Syria, families had few other options for communication besides outrageously expensive phone calls. Now that everyone has access to the Internet, services like Skype have rendered the Shouting Hill outdated.

Our conversation was followed by a delicious lunch in Faiz’s house that included fresh fruits and vegetables, multiple varities of rice, stuffed grape leaves, and a few other dishes I cannot even explain.

The Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) was our next topic for the day. We started off meeting with a soldier on Mt. Bental who told us about the security situation between Syria and the Golan Heights. She explained that the geography of the Golan Heights is what makes it so valuable to the security of Israel. The Golan sits high above the Sea of Galilee and provides stunning views of the Israeli sea and valley below. These views also offer a valuable strategic position over the valley. Before Israel controlled the Golan, Syrian forces frequently shot at residents in the valley below.

Next we met with a 23-year-old American-born General in the IDF. He clearly took pride in his service and was hesitant to reveal any sense of pluralism or diversity of opinion within the IDF. Additionally, he cautioned us against believing what we hear abroad about the IDF. While many of us had heard criticisms of the IDF shooting at unarmed Syrians crossing the border in previous weeks, he said that the IDF had practiced great restraint and respect regarding those crossing the border. He said that the IDF is often misrepresented and criticized, while in reality they are respectful and restrained.

Finally, we reached the ancient city of Tzfat. Tzfat is one of the four holy cities of Judaism and has had a continuous Jewish presence for over 500 years. It is best known as the center of Kabbalah, Jewish mysticism. After seeing an ancient synagogue, we met Avraham, an American-born student of Kabbalah who shared with us the awe-inspiring power of Kabbalah. He told us how the Kabbalistic view of giving and taking has completely changed his life and inspired him to strive towards being the best giver possible.

We finally reached the kibbutz, had a debriefing session, and most people went off to bed. Struggling with a lot of what I had seen during the day, I had a long conversation with another student on the trip. One of my main questions and goals for this trip, I told her, is to see if I can find a culture in Israel with which I can identify. Others have long told me that Israel is the Jewish homeland, and that as a Jew it is my homeland too. However, while I strongly identify as an American as well as a Jew, I am struggling to see if I can indeed feel that I am welcome or at home in Israel.

So far, I can’t say that in my first day I have felt that spark of belonging that some friends have described upon their first visit to Israel. Instead, I’m struck by how there is no single “Israel” with which to identify.

Israel is defined by its diversity and the plurality of views within the country.  In just 12 hours I’ve been exposed to several of the various dimensions that make up this land.  The question I am taking into the coming days is, given that diversity and those many dimensions, what does it mean to have a personal relationship with this land?  Is such a thing possible?  Or is it a matter of finding one of those dimensions, one of those narratives, that draws me in?

Eli

Eli Gold
Carleton College ‘11
June 14, 2011